Kyoto has history but Nara has HISTORY. Nara was the OG ancient capital of Japan, 84 years before Kyoto. In its illustrious era as Japan’s central power, Nara witnessed remarkable developments, such as the construction of the world’s largest bronze Buddha statue, robust connections with China, and the government’s significant support for Buddhism and the creation of important literature.   In the heart of this culturally vibrant city, Shisui, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Nara debuted in the fall of 2023 as part of Marriott International’s esteemed Luxury Collection. Nestled in Nara, the culturally rich neighbor of Kyoto, Shusui Hotel has opened its doors to discerning guests. While Nara boasts a wealth of history and culture, often drawing day-trippers to witness the 1400 deer residing around Nara Park, the emergence of few new hotels in the city signals a shift towards elevated luxury travel experiences. Shusui Hotel stands at the forefront of this trend, offering a captivating blend of opulence and sophistication for those seeking an unparalleled stay in Nara. 

KINOSAKI     Amidst the rising popularity of infrared saunas and ice baths for wellness and relaxation, in Japan, the timeless tradition of the ‘Onsen’ firmly holds its ground. Oh and we are not here to argue, instead, we bow to its merits—beneficial for the skin, invigorating for the body, a remedy for hangovers and aging joints.   With over 3,000 onsen towns sprinkled across Japan, each offering a small haven of scattered hot springs, the allure lies in the ease of hopping from one rejuvenating soak to another, while starting the day with a wholesome Japanese breakfast and ending with a hearty feast.   While these towns certainly possess their own unique quaint “charm”, they often differ from the lavish luxury spa resorts commonly found in the West. With aging tatami mats, decor reminiscent of the 1970s, and walls that might show signs of wear, they don’t always exude a strong design focus. For years, we embraced this and even turned a blind eye or two, attributing it to the ‘onsen’ experience. However, a small onsen town called Kinosaki is breaking this mold.

FUFU Kyoto may be one of those hotels that you can easily walk past without noticing, but trust me… This is a good thing. Japanese aesthetics are all about harmony and not disrupting the peace of one’s surroundings, so being in the “flow” of the city, so to speak, is just one of the many ways in which this hotel exemplifies the beauty of the ancient capital. Nestled in the elegant Okazaki area, an absolute favorite of mine, FUFU Kyoto manages to blend in seamlessly with the nearby temples, art museums, and world-famous ryotei restaurants without losing any presence or originality of its own.   When I visited the hotel, I was guided down a narrow path lined with bamboo as soon as I stepped foot on the property. The walk itself was therapeutic, with a soft breeze muffling the sound of the cars behind me and the bamboo dancing on the wind. As I came to the end of the pathway, I was welcomed with a silent bow by one of the attentive staff and entered the world of FUFU.   FUFU Kyoto opened in April 2021, joining several FUFU brand hotels across Japan. The hotel brands itself as a “globally unique Japanese resort experience,” and all their hotels are surrounded by an abundance of nature. Secreted away in the hospitality of FUFU, guests have the chance to luxuriate in what each resort offers, which includes relaxing hot springs and cuisine made from the freshest local produce.     

Cruising along on a 25-minute shuttle ride from Kameoka Station, I passed a lot of rice fields, mist, and billboards selling health products… all true signs that I was in the Kyoto countryside . The very second that the van arrived at our destination, Sumiya Kiho-an, the kimono-clad ryokan staff came bustling towards us. A woman greets us with an energetic “yokosoooo” (“welcome!”), three or four more staff following in her wake. As I step out, she quickly grabs my rugged black bag and ushers us through the thatched roof gate.   Sumiya Kiho-an is a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) located about an hour away from Kyoto Station in the Yunohana Onsen region of Kameoka City. Yunohana Onsen is frequented by locals who are looking to soak in some natural hot springs since central Kyoto offers limited options that are mostly man-made. In fact, the area’s nickname is “Kyo no Okuzashiki” (“Kyoto’s Inner Parlor”), referring to its status as a getaway location that’s still close to the larger city. Legend says that samurai warriors would come to this area to soak in the hot springs to heal their wounds during the medieval Warring States period.

“It’s all about the mind-body-soul connection,” says Chuuma-san, the head therapist at Kyoto’s newest spa, KOKYU. Dressed in a muted red linen dress with lustrous hair and dewy skin, I found myself in awe of her cheerful-yet-calm demeanor. As I listened to her talk enthusiastically about KOKYU, a spa/gallery space off Nijo Teramachi, I couldn’t help thinking… “I’ll have what she’s having.”   Chuuma san sums up the spa’s philosophy quite simply: “We can sometimes trick our minds not to feel stress, but our bodies… our bodies will give us cues. We wanted KOKYU to be a place where people learn to listen to those cues by becoming more in-tune with themselves.

Of all the Japanese companies known throughout the world, video gaming pioneer Nintendo is one of the most beloved. Despite its technology-driven reputation, Nintendo was actually founded back in 1889 by Fusajiro Yamauchi to produce hanafuda, a type of card used for traditional Japanese games. From 1933 to 1959, these cards were produced in a quiet neighborhood near Kyoto Station at a building that served as the company headquarters, factory, and Yamauchi family home. Though the company expanded to larger offices, this former headquarters remained as a private Yamauchi family property. After finding international acclaim in the 1980’s with the NES system and classic video games such as Donkey Kong and Super Mario Bros., the company continued to innovate… and Nintendo enthusiasts came from all over the globe to marvel at the former headquarters building, imagining how a bunch of craftsmen painting Japanese playing cards eventually became a video gaming empire.   Over sixty years since the headquarters was shuttered, Nintendo fans who wanted to explore the inside of the building can now rejoice! In the spring of 2022, the former headquarters was transformed and given new life as a beautiful boutique hotel named Marufukuro, after the Marufuku Nintendo Co. brand used to sell the company’s playing cards in the early 1900’s. The hotel is run by Tokyo-based renovation company Plan Do See and boasts eighteen guest rooms (seven of which are suites) ranging in size from 33sqm to 79sqm. While keeping the vintage architecture that preserves an early period in Nintendo history, the hotel has also received a 21st century makeover by world-renowned designer Tadao Ando, “the king of concrete”.

The black monolith façade of the W Osaka caught my eye the instant I emerged from the nearest subway station and looked up towards the sky. Amongst the grey, Showa-era structures around it, this hotel designed by Ando Tadao stands out with a striking identity all its own. However, don’t let the sleek, monochrome appearance fool you! We shouldn’t judge a book by its cover, and the W Osaka reminded me to expect the unexpected.   My first introduction to this philosophy at the W Osaka came when I stepped into their Arrival Tunnel, an entrance inspired by the Japanese art forms of cutting and folding paper, kirigami, and origami. The tunnel was lit up pink in an ode to spring, and according to Amy, the hotel’s digital marketing specialist, the color changes every season. As I walked past a bright young couple taking selfies while I was dressed head to toe in black with a Comme des Garçons skirt and newly-colored dark hair… I couldn’t help feeling a bit like Wednesday Addams. After I passed the couple doing my best black cloud imitation, I looked around the space and saw nothing of the subdued and serene wabi-sabi culture of Kyoto I was so used to. This was Osaka— loud, vibrant and fun! And I was there to embrace and enjoy ALL of it.

“You know, my favorite time of the year is around April and May after the cherry blossom season.” I’m in the lobby of the Suiran, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Kyoto sipping sencha with Sato-san, Suiran’s PR representative, who regales me with her knowledge of the area. “The maple trees start to show off their green leaves around then. Have you ever felt a fresh maple leaf in May? I love the texture… so soft.” Sato-san also talked about which direction the birds fly into Arashiyama and how the shape of the mountain changes depending on the season. It was clear that Sato-san’s knowledge and passion for nature is something that was developed working in this environment… an environment I was ready to dive into!

Spring 2022, just like a passionate fling, the sakura (cherry blossom) came in heavy, made a scene, left us intoxicated and longing for more. Connecting with the Buddhist idea of mortality, mindfulness, living in the now, the blossoms are a timeless metaphor for human existence and is a reminder of how fragile our lives are.   As Victoria Abbott Riccardi reminds us, its not just about the 3 days of full bloom but its about the full romance- from start to finish.   “One day we strolled down the Philosopher’s Path, which proved as enchanting as I had hoped in the fragrant pink bloom of spring. Since ancient times, the Japanese have heralded the arrival of the cherry blossoms because they symbolize the ephemeral beauty of life. But it isn’t just the three or four days of open flowers that stirs the senses. It is their arrival and departure. Looking at a bud about to burst open offers the pleasurable anticipation of rebirth, while the soft scattering of petals on the ground is often considered the most beautiful stage of all because it represents the death of the flowers.” – Victoria Abbott Riccardi     See you again in 2023.   Words: Sara Aiko Photos: Sara Aiko

Back in 1977, a small-framed but fierce Kyoto woman traveled to Paris. Her name was Yuri, and as an art and culture enthusiast, the City of Lights pulled at her heart strings until she found romance. The fateful encounter came at a small neighborhood restaurant, but it didn’t involve a dashing French gentleman by the name of Claude or Jean. What Yuri fell for was a classic French dessert called tarte Tatin. Before she ventured to France, Yuri was already running a French restaurant in Kyoto during a time when it was still rare to see a French restaurant in Japan’s old capital.

Salarymen in their dark suits give me sympathetic smiles as I shuffle past, trying not to make eye contact with them. I don’t want to admit that I am now that girl lugging three bags in the pouring rain with my iPhone in hand, running around the financial district of Tokyo slightly lost while trying to get to my destination– Aman Tokyo.

Walking down the narrow stone paths of Gion, Kyoto’s famous entertainment district, you will find the streets are lined with traditional machiya townhouse, hidden kaiseki restaurants, and exclusive teahouses where every so often you see a geiko step outside, take a deep bow towards her sisters, and then disappear into the night. They call Gion the “heart” of Kyoto, a historic area preserving tradition and classic Kyoto culture. It’s not somewhere you’d necessarily expect an up-and-coming global fashion designer to open a shop… but Taiga Takahashi did just that.